CAPTAIN 8 (AV8) Troubleshooting Guide

No motors run

Check if the bottom circuit breakers tripped (through the bottom). Press in if tripped.

(If it pops again, test the rectifier.)

Test the rectifier

If the rectifier fails, no motors will be able to run. A failed rectifier trips a bottom circuit breaker continually.

Find the rectifier block. It’s a black 1″ square with 4 wires.

Test A

• Pull the blue wire off.
• Repower the control. Did the bottom circuit breaker stop tripping?

Test B

• Pull the short fat red wire off the rectifier (the red directly from the transformer).
• Repower the control. Did the bottom circuit breaker stop tripping?

How to replace the rectifier

1. Turn power off.
2. Take a picture of the wire locations and the orientation of the rectifier so you can put it back together (the rectifier’s one corner is beveled).
3. Remove the ¼ screw from the center.
4. Put the new rectifier in.

Power tests

Testing incoming power

Get a voltmeter. Set it to AC volts. Check voltage between Hot and Neutral (120) or L1 & L2 (240v). If there is no voltage, call an electrician.

Test transformer voltage

This assumes you already tested and have incoming power.

• Check voltage between the transformer’s yellow and orange.
• Check voltage between the transformer’s yellow and white.
• If you have approximately 120v between one set and not the other, replace the transformer.

If there is power between both sets: check voltage between both fat red wires. If there is no voltage (24–30vac), replace the transformer.

Test blue & purple for voltage

Set the meter to DC. Check voltage between blue & purple on the lid. It needs to read between 24 and 44 vdc.

If there is 24vac on the fat red wires but no DC on blue & purple, change the rectifier.

Transformer tests

Transformer test 1

This test assumes the left circuit breaker just trips and you have already tested the rectifier.

1. Make sure the power is off.
2. Take a picture so you can see how to put the wires back on.
3. Remove the yellow & orange wires from the terminal block.
4. Pull off the white wire from the thermal switch.
5. Repower.

If it no longer trips, the transformer is shorted to frame – replace it.

Transformer test 2

Assumes correct incoming power:

• Check voltage between the transformer’s yellow and orange.
• Check voltage between the transformer’s yellow and white.
• If you have approximately 120v between one set and not the other, replace the transformer.

If there is power between both sets: check voltage between both fat red wires. If there is no voltage (24–30vac), replace the transformer.

Checking the thermostat (Test 3)

Theory: there is a thermostat to disconnect L1 if the box gets too hot.

Test: check AC voltage between its 2 tabs. If line voltage is across the thermostat, then the thermostat is open. Replace it if it is open when not overheated.

A motor doesn’t run but others do

Most likely a motor’s circuit breaker is tripped. Press the center tab in to reset.

There are multiple circuit breakers – one for every motor. The unit ships with 5 amp / 7.5 amp.

Too big of a load can be from a bad motor, the wrong size of breaker, bad wire, or many other things.

If it’s a new installation and the motor breaker just trips

A limit switch might not be set, and the curtain is wound tight. Or the breaker might be undersized.

If it had been working fine for years and just trips now

• The curtain might be jammed.
• Limit switches out of adjustment.
• Limit switch failed from lightning.
• The motor might be burnt out.
• The wires might be smashed.

Go check if the curtain is wound tight anywhere along its length. Check for lumpy material. Check for obstructions. Inspect the wiring.

The screen is on but I can’t do anything with it

Likely the touch panel is out of calibration. You can recalibrate it.

Tools needed: a short piece of wire stripped on both ends.

Entering calibration

1. Fasten an end of the short piece of wire on Input #2.
2. Turn power off and back on again.
3. Wait for it to show the Recalibrate screen.
4. Bump the loose end of the jumper against Common 3×. (Input #2 needs to be pulsed to Common 3× while the screen shows Recalibrate.)

The screen will show: Steadily touch the first calibration point.

Step 2 – press the 5 calibration dots in sequence (use a pencil eraser).

When finished, the controller will restart. If touch is still not working, try recalibration again.

If it still doesn’t work, make sure the bezel or enclosure isn’t putting tension on the screen. Tension, twisting, or moisture can cause the touchpad’s touch resistors to change. The screen and touchpad are replaceable if needed.

Controller shows Error

The error means the controller isn’t mapped correctly. Mapping means assigning an app (vent, fan, heater, or light) to a relay/button. But you can’t map it 2×. If you inadvertently do, the button will show Error.

To fix an Error

1. Step 1: Read the mapping section, and the entire book on setting up a controller.
2. Step 2: Go into the config menu.

3. Step 3: Read through P0 through P10. Carefully read through each parameter’s description. It will tell which relays it will be using for each app. Read through the descriptions for each app. Look for overlapping relays. For this example, it’s showing the fan will be using relay 5. This is conflicting with the vent using relay 1 through 6. This is the error.
4. Step 4: To fix it, either increase the fan’s first relay to an unused relay (or reduce the number of vents).

This error can come from any app assigned to the same relay. It’s not limited to vents and fans.

Relay mapping info

There can be multiples of each app. The app’s multiples are in sequence; no interrupting. The starting relay begins the app’s relay series. Each app’s starting relay is adjustable. You can see the series by the screen’s override buttons.

← Back to all manuals